Transportation
From Todos Santos de Cuchumatan: what an odyssey !! Flor de Mariaa microbus at 7.00 to Huehuetenango 20 GTQ. Other microbus to Sacapulas 20 GTQ with intermediaate change for unknown reasons at Aguatacan. Fourth microbus from Sacapulas to Nebaj 15 GTQ. Arrival at about 13.00. There are no tourist shuttles. Microbuses are generally very crowded. The bulky bags are loaded on the roof, and covered with tarpaulins if the weather forecast tends to rain. It is wise to keep with you anything you care for, better if small sized, for the following reasons 1) inside there is no overhead place, and any property must therefore stay on your knees 2) in case of a change of van is better to be as fast as possible to grab a seat
To Chichicastenango: microbus to Santa Cruz Quiche, 25 GTQ, two hours, acceptable human density inside the vehicle. Immediate connection with chicken bus to Chichi 5 GTQ. It is here that I understand that, to be comfortable, I have to sit at the back rows and not get stuck to the front ones.
Sleep
Hotel Santa Maria Nebaj, 150 GTQ a ensuite triple with single use + another 25 GTQ for breakfast. Room and above all wonderful bathroom.
A bit noisy because it overlooks the main road where also trucks transit, anyway I slept very well. Opposite there is an evangelical church where a group sings loudly psalms and praises annoying the whole city, but fortunately at 21.00 the religious service stops and only the usual traffic noise remains. The hotel is located in a colonial house with an internal patio, connected to a garden overlooking the kitchen and the dining room. Fixed menu as in school canteens.
Eat
Valle Ixil restaurant, very nice and clean place, but not great food, 30 GTQ rice, cheese, beans and tea. I tried it once. Two more dinners spent at my hotel (they take reservation at breakfast time). As for lunches I just bought some tortillas on the streets (1 GTQ for 4 tortillas), and cheese at the supermarket.
Excursions
Chajul – 14 GTQ with microbus. A real gem. The usual central square with whitewashed church and fountain, very few foreigners, women dressed in brightly colored costumes, and the typical hairstyles of braided ribbons and ponpons. Here you can witness scenes of everyday life of normal people. The surrounding valley is very beautiful.
Cotzal – 12 GTQ in microbus, less colorful and less cheerful village.
Impressions
Before leaving, I was very curious to explore the area of the western highlands, where the indigenous communities still speak the ancestral language, and still dress and live in the traditional way. In many internet forums, the community of Santa Maria Nebaj, in the province of Quichè, was considered among the most interesting, along with the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes. The colours of women’s dresses, in shades from red to purple, and elaborate hairstyles are really a magnet for those who like to admire different and particular looks. The green mountains which surround the city of Nebaj are enchanting. The area is more humid than Quetzaltenango, but it rains especially in the afternoon, and not continuously.
My favorites: Chajul and the main square of Nebaj, with its continuous coming and going